Vizsla Things to Know

Venomous Snakes

A venomous animal is one with specialized glands that secrete a toxic substance which immobilizes and then kills prey. Spiders, insects, and snakes are venomous animals with snakes being particularly deadly.

There are five types of venomous snakes:

• Colubridae – These snakes possess rigid rear fangs in their mouths. An example would be the boomslang (an African tree snake)
• Elapidae – These snakes possess rigid front fangs in their mouths. Examples would be the Cobra, mamba, and coral snake.
• Viperidae – These snakes have hinged front fangs. The adder and asp are examples.
• Crotalines – These snakes also have hinged front fangs and are the subject of our discussion. These include the copperheads and rattlesnakes.
• Hydrophiidae – These have rigid front fangs and are completely aquatic. These are the sea snakes.
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The snakes with rigid fangs bite and hold their prey until it dies. The snakes with hinged fangs, such as the rattlers, will strike, release the prey, and then look for the dead body.

Snake venom is highly complicated. At least 26 separate enzymes have been identified but some 10 enzymes appear common to all snake venoms (though in different concentrations). All snake bites are not equal. The quality of venom depends not only on the type of snake but on the season, the geographical region, the age of the snake, and how recently it has released venom previously.

The Western Rattlesnake

The Western Rattlesnake (Crotalus viridis ) – This snake species has been divided up into numerous subspecies and DNA analysis is showing that these may actually be separate species. There are currently 7 subtypes of Crotalus viridis:

• Southern Pacific Rattlesnake (Crotalus viridis helleri)
• Great Basin Rattlesnake (Crotalus viridis lutosus)
• Northern Pacific Rattlesnake (Crotalus viridis oreganos)
• Western Diamondback (Crotalus atrox)
• Red Diamondback (Crotalus ruber)
• Sidewinder (Crotalus cerastes)
• Speckled Rattlesnake (Crotalus mitchellii)
• Mojave Rattlesnake (Crotalus scutalatus)
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The physical appearance of each snake species is variable and it is difficult to tell what species of snake one is looking at. Some general principles in distinguishing poisonous snakes are:

• Broad, triangular head with a noticeable “neck” behind the head.
• Vertical pupils (non-poisonous snakes have round pupils) though hopefully one would not be close enough to evaluate this.
• The Crotalines are also called “pit vipers” because they have heat-sensing “pits” on t heir faces between the eye and nostril. The pits help them locate prey.

Dogs vs. Snakes

Dogs encounter snakes during play or work in the snake’s natural habitat.  Most bites to dogs occur on the face or extremities.  The rattlesnake bite is generally “hemotoxic” which means that it exerts its toxin by disrupting the integrity of the blood vessels. The swelling is often dramatic with up to 1/3 of the total blood circulation being lost into the tissues in a matter of hours. The toxin further disrupts normal blood clotting mechanisms leading to uncontrolled bleeding. This kind of blood loss induces shock and finally death. Facial bites are often more lethal as the swelling may occlude the throat or impair ability to breathe.

An exception would be the Mojave rattlesnake whose venom is “neurotoxic.”  The bite of this snake causes rapid paralysis. This includes paralysis of the respiratory muscles and suffocation.

TREATMENT

The faster the bite is recognized, the more effective the treatment is. Do not try to cut the bite wound open or suck out the poison. Seek veterinary care immediately for proper treatment.

IV FLUIDS

Since the most common mechanism  of death from rattlesnake bite is circulatory collapse, IV support and monitoring for signs of blood pressure drop are very important. Fluids may be started at a relatively slow rate if the patient is stable but should signs of impending trouble occur, circulatory volume replacement is as easy as opening a drip set valve. Twenty four hours of observation post-bite is a prudent observation time with IV fluid administration all the while.

ANTIVENIN

There are numerous misconceptions about antivenin. The first is simply the name of the product. It is not “anti-venom.” It is not a single injection that provides the antidote to snake bite venom.  Antivenin is a biological product consisting of antibodies made by horses in response to exposure to four common Crotaline venoms.  The antibody serum is reconstituted into an intravenous drip that is run into the patient over at least 30 minutes or so.

Antivenin is expensive (at least $100-$200 per vial) and a large dog with a severe bite is likely to require several vials. Because the product if of horse origin, often a scratch test to the ear flap is used to test for immunological sensitivity (i.e. to predict whether the patient is likely to have anaphylactic reaction to the antivenin once it is administered intravenously. The patient will likely always be sensitive to equine products after administration of antivenin which makes future snake bite treatment problematic.

A newer, more purified antivenin of sheep origin has recently been marketed (“Cro-Fab” antivenin) but this is even more expensive (approximately $700 per vial).

Antivenin is very helpful in the inactivation  of snake venom but there is a narrow window during which it must be used. After about 4 hours post-bite, antivenin is of minimal use.

A separate antivenin is available for coral snake venom.

ANTIHISTAMINES

Injections of antihistamines may or may not be helpful with the inflammation from the actual snake bite but may be helpful in warding off anaphylactic reaction to the antivenin. Further, the sedating side effects of antihistamines help calm the patient. Antihistamine use is a common therapy used in the treatment of snake bites.

Corticosteroids seem like they would be helpful as they are universally anti-inflammatory; however, their use has been associated with higher mortality rates so they are not generally administered.

OTHER TREATMENTS

Blood transfusion may be necessary if life-threatening blood loss has occurred.  Antibiotics are often used to control secondary infections.  Medications to control pain are important to snake bite patients.

VACCINATION

Recently, Red Rock Biologics has released a vaccination against the venom of the Western Diamondback (Crotalus atrox). This vaccine also protects against the venom of six out of seven of the other California rattlesnakes. Testing on the venom of the Mojave rattlesnake is still pending.

• Hiking dogs and dogs that live in rattlesnake areas are good candidates for this product. The vaccine is administered in two doses 2-4 weeks apart and then annually thereafter.
• A snake bite should always be treated as an emergency even in a vaccinated dog.
• If your dog is bitten by a rattlesnake, seek veterinary attention immediately.
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Content taken from Rattlesnake Bites in California, By Wendy C. Brooks, DVM, DipABVP. Educational Director, VeterinaryPartner.com. Published 8/23/2004 .

Red Rock Biologics Rattlesnake Vaccine

(Crotalus Atrox Toxoid)

The rational for vaccination against snakebite is to use the dog’s own immune system to generate antibodies which will reduce the effective dose of venom that reaches circulation.

On average, vaccinates have 3-4 vial equivalents of antivenom circulating by one month after the second dose of vaccine. Upon envenomation, vaccinates will require less antivenom than nonvaccinates.

Because the preformed antibody is present at the time of the bite, expect significant reductions in tissue damage as the antibody ties up venom components at the bite site.

Vaccinated animals experience less pain, less swelling, and less tissue destruction than an unvaccinated animal given the same dose of venom.

Even with the vaccine, snakebite remains a veterinary emergency. Antibiotics to combat infection are an essential part of snakebite treatment.

Concluding Remarks

Club members who enjoy having their dogs with them in our Arizona outdoors should carefully consider and prepare for rattlesnake encounters. Its their Arizona also.

The first level of preparation should be to have your dogs snake avoidance trained. No dogs’ training is complete until they will avoid the sight, the smell, and the sound of a rattlesnake. This is their foundation for survival.

Secondarily, vaccination protection against unexpected envenomation is now possible.  Red Rock Biologics appears to be first to market with such a vaccine. Before taking this step, consult with your veterinarian.

And always consider and respond to rattlesnake bite as a medical emergency. Leave the field and seek veterinary help as quickly as possible.  Your little friend’s welfare and possible survival will depend on the action you take.

EVERYONE LOVES GOOD SPORTSMANSHIP

By Tim Jorstad

It really feels good, completing a title on your Vizsla! Competing is often a draining experience! The old ABC Sports "thrill of victory, and the agony of defeat" quote certainly applies to our efforts! I can recount knotted stomachs, sweaty brows, thumping hearts and anxiety attacks myself when going forth to compete. Achieving a title usually whets your appetite for "More! More!"

I'd like to discuss what I see as a point of good sportsmanship... which truthfully holds true as your advance in all the performance arenas-hunting, obedience, and I would think tracking and agility, etc. You really should have a developed chance at passing prior to entering a specific test level. Doing so also gives your bracemate or fellow obedience (etc.) trialer a better chance of succeeding, too.

In obedience trials, you start off with group exercises at the Companion Dog level. Same holds true with the Vizsla Club of America Versatility program obedience test. In those exams, a good part of your chance for success will depend on the steadiness of the dogs left at stay in the ring with you! If your dog has neighbors who are not ready for the Stay exercises, you may find your dog negatively affected. Poof! You're out the entry fee, the time to prepare and attend, and your blood pressure likely spikes.

Having your dog "ready" to compete at a given level is important to save you time, money and frustration! But having your dog ready to compete at a given level BEFORE YOU ENTER is also good sportsmanship to those others being tested.

We had a number of our Vizslas recently finish their Junior Hunter titles. Congratulations to them, their handlers and owners!

However, if your dog is a new JH titleholder, please recognize it is a big leap from Junior to Senior! And you need to be sure you are ready to compete effectively at the Senior level before entering. If not, there is a considerable chance your Vizsla will not only knock his/herself out with an error, but will take his/her bracemate out as well!

In Junior, the judges need to see your dog hunting and handling in accordance with the standard, responding to you, a point with you in reasonable shotgun range. Many of our young Junior dogs are still prone to bust the bird up after they have found and pointed it. In Senior, your Vizsla has to maintain the point until the bird is flushed AND the bird is shot before the dog is released. Senior dogs must also show they honor their bracemate's point. Those are two VERY SIGNIFICANT advances in steadiness and expertise. (The Senior dog can be "whoaed" once showing an honor and, if the handier gets there, he can be collared.) Over the last 15 years of so, I've seen a lot of Senior competitors take out their bracemates by not being truly ready to compete. (The same holds true in the obedience ring and in Master Hunter tests.) And it is a major bummer when your dog is wiped out by your bracemate's error.

Jumping from the Junior to the Senior hunt test usually will take some time and a lot of practice sessions. A reflection of the difficulty of successfully testing at the Senior level is the fact our club has only had three Vizslas earn the title to date (as well as I can remember). Be a good sportsman or sportswoman-know your Vizsla is ready for the Senior test before entering. Your bracemate will really appreciate your consideration!

The VCA Versatility hunt test is a good place to go after junior as you develop your Vizsla! In that test, which I would argue is a bridge between the AKC Junior and Senior tests, your Vizsla hunts alone, can be collared after the point, and does not have to honor. The retrieve must be two-thirds of the way back to the handler... in Senior, the retrieve must be within a couple of steps.

Thanks and happy training!

 NOTICE FOR SPRING GARDENING

We ran this warning before, but it still bears repeating, as this is the time of the year most gardeners are preparing their yards for the spring planting season.

Cocoa Mulch, which is sold by Home Depot, Foreman’s Garden Supply, and other garden supply stores, contains a lethal ingredient call “Theobromine".  It is lethal to dogs and cats!  It smells like chocolate and it really attracts dogs.  They will ingest this stuff and die.  Several deaths have already occurred in the past few months.

Just a word of caution – check what you are using in your gardens and be aware of what your gardeners are using in your gardens.

Theobromine is the ingredient that is used to make all chocolate – especially dark or baker’s chocolate – which is toxic to dogs.  Cacao bean shells contain potentially toxic quantities of theobromine, a xanthine compound similar in effects to caffeine and theophyline.

A dog that ingested a lethal quantity of garden mulch made from cacao bean shells developed severe convulsions and died 17 hours later.  Analysis of the stomach contents and the ingested cacao bean shells revealed the presence of lethal amounts of theobromine.

Stay alert to chemicals that can be deadly to your pets.

(from ADOIA Oct., Nov., Dec. 2003 newsletter)

 Here is information you will find helpful regarding bloating in Vizslas.

Webinar: What Every Dog Owner Should Know About Bloat 

Video Link

In this webinar, Dr. Elizabeth Rozanski explains what every dog owner needs to know about gastric dilatation-volvulus, or bloat. She will present the signs and treatment options for bloat along with current options for prevention.

Dr. Elizabeth Rozanski is a board-certified specialist in emergency medicine and critical care and professor at the Tufts University Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine. Dr. Rozanski graduated from the University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine in 1992, completed an internship at the University of Minnesota, and then a residency in emergency and critical care at the University of Pennsylvania. She is a Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care and the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine. Since 1996, she has worked at Tufts Veterinary School, where she directs the critical care service.

If you enjoyed this webinar, you might also like our podcasts Gastrointestinal Foreign Bodies and Intestinal Obstructions and Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency and Megaesophagus.

CHF is grateful to the many clubs and organizations that have sponsored the Bloat Initiative. 

Through their generous support, research grants to determine possible causes of bloat and better treatments for this disease will be awarded and announced in October.

To support canine health research and educational programs, please consider making a donation today.

Here is a list of toxic foods for dogs and information on each type of food.

List of human foods:

• Chocolate
• Raisins and Grapes
• Onions
• Avocado
• Salt
• Mouldy food.
• Salt
• Dairy
• Meat bones
• Garlic
• Yeast
• Macadamia nuts
• Alcohol
• Peaches
• Gum

Chocolate

Everyone loves chocolate, even dogs. How can anyone resist the sweet treat? Well, just because they love it, doesn’t mean that they should be eating it. Chocolate can be potential very dangerous for your dog. Why is this? Because chocolate contains a chemical that is called Theobromine.

While this chemical doesn’t really affect people who eat chocolate, it can be very dangerous for your dog, especially if it is a small dog. Ingesting a lot of it can potentially lead to poisoning. Not only that, but chocolate contains a lot of fat, which is something your dog does not need either.

If you have given your dog some chocolate and you notice that he is panting, breathing heavily or vomiting, then he might have eaten too much chocolate, which means that you should take him to see the vet right away. There are some chocolates that have less of the chemical than others, but really, your best bet is to have your dog stay away from all chocolate in general.

Grapes and Raisins

Some people are under the impression that all fruits are safe to eat, no matter the species. But that could not be farther from the truth. Grapes and raisins are very bad for your dog. The worst thing about it is that vets don’t even know why grapes and raisins cause negative reactions when dogs eat them – they just do.

The problem with these fruits is that they are very small, and you could end up accidentally dropping some on the floor without even noticing. And as you know, a dog will pretty much eat anything off of the floor.

If you see that your dog has ingested a grape, you should try to make them vomit. If the dog is already showing signs of discomfort and sickness, you should be running to the vet to get them checked out. Grapes and raisins can be toxic for dogs, it’s as simple as that.

Onions

It is not very likely that your dog will be too crazy about onions but in case your dog is has a bit of a sweet tooth for this veggie, you should know that onions are actually toxic for dogs. This is because of a substance called Thiosulphate that can cause a type of anemia where the dog’s red blood cells are basically destroyed.

Onions are highly toxic for dogs and even as little as 600 grams can be very harmful. In addition, the toxicity can build up over time so small but frequent amounts of onions are bad as well. You should be careful not to give your dog any foods that contain onions and the same goes for onion powder and all similar products.

Signs of poisoning include diarrhea, vomiting, lethargy and difficulty breathing. If your dog does eat some onions, try to induce vomiting and take him to the vet.

Avocados

Everyone knows that avocados are extremely healthy and good for you, because of their high vitamin and Omega fatty acid content. However, what’s good for you is not necessarily good for your dog, and this is particularly the case when it comes to avocados.

Avocados contain Persin, a substance that is also found in the leaves and the bark of the avocado tree. Persin is harmful for dogs, however in a different degree depending on the size of the dog and some other factors.

Some dogs are not even affected by Persin, some get mildly nauseous, some vomit and some have more serious problems. It’s hard to tell what kind of reaction your dog will have to avocados so it’s best to avoid them altogether. The pit of the avocado is also dangerous if swallowed, so make sure to keep your avocados somewhere where your dog can find them.

Moldy Food

Of course no one would give their dog something that has mold on it, but dogs can be curious when it comes to food and some of them will eat just about anything, including moldy foods, like moldy bread you left out for birds, for example.

Mold that grows on food can cause Mycotoxicosis, a dangerous condition that requires prompt medical attention. Symptoms of Mycotoxicosis include diarrhea, vomiting, abdominal pain, lethargy, excessive sleepiness, difficulty breathing, excessive drooling and even seizures. This condition can be fatal so if you notice your dog eating moldy foods take him to the vet immediately, preferably with a sample of what he’s eaten.

In some cases mild poisoning can be very mild, but you don’t want to take any chances. Keep your eyes open for mushrooms that may grow in your backyard or in the area where you walk the dog, since Mycotoxicosis can also be caused by some types of mushrooms.

Salt

Some vets say that dogs don’t need salt at all, others say that a bit of salt is actually good for them, but all experts agree that too much salt can be very bad for your dog. We are not talking just table salt from a shaker – even though some dogs have the penchant for licking it.

You should also be careful about the food you share with your dog, such as leftovers from dinner, chips that fall to the ground, etc. Like people, when dogs eat salty foods, they get thirsty. They quench the thirst by drinking large amounts of water, which leads to more urination and possibly to diarrhea and vomiting. In addition, it may harm the kidneys.

So pay attention to the amount of salty foods you give your dog. Keep salt shakers and packaging away from the reach of your dog and avoid giving him leftovers that are particularly salty.

Dairy

Many people give dairy products to their dogs, especially cheese, because they think dogs need calcium from milk and dairy. While this may be true for puppies, you should also bear in mind that, like people, dogs can be lactose intolerant or even allergic to this sugar from milk.

Adverse reactions that may occur in some dogs after eating dairy products include diarrhea, vomiting, abdominal pain or discomfort, gas, lethargy and weight loss. If you notice that your dog has loose stool or any of the symptoms mentioned above, it’s best to avoid feeding him dairy altogether.

Dogs that are lactose intolerant or allergic should not eat any cheese, yogurt, cream, ice cream, milk or foods containing dairy. In case of moderate adverse reactions, like passing gas or mild diarrhea, if your dog really loves dairy, switch to low lactose products, such as American cheese or lactose-free products.

Meat Bones

It may sound strange, but meat bones are not really good for dogs. We usually associate dogs with bones as their favorite food, but the truth is that bones can actually be quite dangerous. First of all, meat bones are a choking hazard. Some bones are particularly brittle and when your dog chews on them, splinters may come off and get stuck in his mouth or esophagus, leading to choking.

Furthermore, some types of meat bones are very dense and difficult to digest. Such bones may cause severe constipation in dogs, which can be a serious problem that requires an intervention from a vet.

Most dogs, however, enjoy chewing on a nice, fat bone, so if you really want to treat your dog with one, make sure it’s a kind of bone that doesn’t break easily and that is not too big or hard to digest. Pick medium-sized or smaller bones and keep an eye on your dog while he’s going at it.

Garlic

Garlic is bad for dogs for the same reason onions are. In fact, these two veggies come from the same family, called Allium, together with chives and shallots. Like onions, garlic can cause a condition called hemolytic anemia, a type of anemia in which red blood cells are destroyed.

This effect of garlic is not necessarily connected with the ingestion of large quantities of the vegetable. The effect can also be accumulative, meaning that small amounts of garlic over an extended period of time can also lead to anemia. In addition, garlic can be harsh for the stomach lining of your dog, leading to gastroenteritis and ulcers.

The harmful effect of garlic also depends on the size of the dog – just half a clove can cause problems for a 12-pound dog, while for a larger dog of, say, 80 pounds, the harmful amount is 2.5 cloves. Keep your garlic someplace where your dog can’t reach it and avoid giving him foods that contain garlic or garlic powder.

Yeast

No one really gives yeast to dogs, but dogs have a way of getting their paws on all sorts of things and they may end up eating some yeast that’s, for example, left on the counter after baking. Yeast is dangerous for dogs for two reasons.

First, a dog’s stomach is a warm, moist environment in which yeast thrives. It can expand and cause the stomach to expand as well, which might cause bowel obstruction or even cut off the blood flow and disrupt breathing. The other reason is associated with alcohol poisoning. Yeast has the ability to ferment sugars.

Fermented sugars can be absorbed into the bloodstream of your dog and produce carbon dioxide, leading to alcohol poisoning. Symptoms include disorientation, drooling, lethargy, vomiting and weakness. This is a serious thing that can potentially be fatal. All this, of course, applies for the live yeast. Foods baked with yeast are safe.

Macadamia Nuts

Macadamia nuts are dangerous for dogs because they are a choking hazard. Everyone knows that, it’s common sense. But not many dog owners are aware of the fact that these nuts are actually toxic for dogs. It’s unclear what is it about macadamia nuts that makes them toxic for canines, but they definitely are.

The minimum amount of these nuts that may cause toxicity is 2 grams per every 2.2 pounds of weight. The smaller the dog, the higher the risk, of course. The symptoms of macadamia nut poisoning usually start within 12 hours and include vomiting, diarrhea, sleepiness, depression, fever and tremors.

If you suspect your dog might have eaten some macadamia nuts, take him to the vet as soon as possible. Avoid leaving open cans of nuts around the house. When using macadamia nuts in the kitchen, check to see if you accidentally dropped any on the floor where your dog can find them.

Alcohol

You’ve probably seen people trying to give their dogs beer at parties because they think it’s funny. But it really isn’t funny. In fact, it is very dangerous. If a dog ingests alcohol, it can have serious repercussions on its health.

Particularly, the dog could experience problems with its nervous and digestive system if a large amount of alcohol is consumed. Obviously, alcohol can have a negative effect on humans too, but the thing is that smaller amounts of alcohol can have negative effects on dogs, and the signs of intoxication will be more noticeable more quickly.

It’s even more dangerous to give a dog alcohol on an empty stomach, because that will increase the speed at which it enters the blood stream and starts affecting your pet. Just don’t do it. And don’t leave your alcoholic beverages in the open. Also, make sure you clean up your drinks if you spill them on the floor.

Peaches

Like with most other fruits that are not good for dogs, the pit of the peach is without a doubt the worst. Peaches are healthy, and dogs should probably be able to eat the regular parts of the fruit, though it’s definitely not advised.

However, the pit is where the brunt of the problem lies. As in most other cases, you can find small traces of cyanide in the pit of a peach, not to mention that if your dog does swallow the pit, it can get lodged in the digestive tract.

Of course, if a dog gets its paws on a peach, it’s going to eat the whole thing. That is why it’s important to keep this fruit, like any other fruit with pits, away from the dog at all times. If you notice that your dog is vomiting and has diarrhea, then it might have eaten the pit of a peach.

Gum

It makes sense that gum is not the ideal snack for your dog. First of all, it’s sticky and annoying and it has no nutritional value whatsoever, so your dog has absolutely no use for it. However, there is one more serious reason why you should never allow your dog to eat chewing gum – gum contains an artificial sweetener called Xylitol, which can be dangerous to dogs.

Xylitol from the chewing gum may cause nausea vomiting, disorientation, dizziness, lack of coordination, lethargy and seizures. In addition, this substance can make the pancreas produce more insulin, which in turn lowers the blood sugar levels to dangerously low, leading to liver damage and other harmful effects.

All this happens rather quickly and sometimes, unfortunately, there is simply no time to react. So it’s probably the best to keep all your gum away from where your dog can reach it and eat it.